思辨藝術飾品設計 

Speculative Accessories Design 

張芮綺  Rachel Chang

 

Rachel received her MA in Fashion Womenswear Footwear Design from the Royal College of Art, BA in Footwear Design from De Montfort University, and specializes in women’s footwear design. Her design and creation are highly cross-field. Her shoe design has collaborated with London base fashion womenswear brand and catwalk show in London Fashion Week, as well as various invited exhibitions in the UK, the Netherlands, Sweden and Germany and other countries. Her works has received footwear prizes and been indexed in the online collection series by the Virtual Shoe Museum. At present, she works as an consultant for haute couture brand, and as a part-time lecturer in the Department of Fashion Design at Tainan University of Technology, and a guest lecturer in the Institute of Creative Industries Design at National Cheng Kung University.

英國皇家藝術學院時尚⼥鞋設計碩⼠、帝⾨⼤學鞋履設計學⼠,專精⼥鞋鞋履設計。其設計與創作不限領域,擅⻑跨領域結合。⼥鞋系列與國際服裝品牌合作於倫敦時裝週展出。作品受邀於英國,荷蘭,瑞典與德國等國家展出,並榮登指標性鞋⼦博物館 Virtual Shoe Museum 線上收藏系列。目前為時裝訂製品牌形象顧問、台南應⽤科技⼤學時尚系兼任講師與國⽴成功⼤學創意產業研究所客座講師。

"Speculative Accessories Design" is an endeavor initiated by the designer Rachel, from the inspiration of the three artists of “OOOO” and their research projects, seeks to bring the biological art into daily life. It’s an attempt to connect Speculative Design with the products of life and fashion, and to translate, understand, and present the extreme and abstract experimental design with life accessories.

「思辨藝術飾品設計」是設計師 Rachel 從㗊機體的三位藝術家的三個研究計畫出發,將生物藝術帶進日常居家生活的嘗試。希望將思辨設計,轉化成結合生活與時尚的產品物件,讓極限與抽象的實驗性設計,以生活物件的型態來轉譯、理解和呈現。
 

Rachel uses the concept of "series" in fashion design, to link the unique works of the three artists; that is, using the same assembly system, cloth and techniques, to develop the life accessories for the three different projects, so that users can experience the project concepts from the artists through a series of design items.

 

The three artists’ projects are all about living beings, so the designer chooses to use non-woven fabric with the touch of felt to create project products. Through the texture of the felt, the lodgers are encouraged to imagine the touch of living beings. Furthermore, non-woven fabric with stiffness enables the designer to construct the tenon system for the fabric to be assembled ​​into different shapes. In this way, instead of the general sewing process for the soft material, it allows the user to experience the principle of "assembly" and "hand sewing," to further understand the structure of the object or organisms, and the composition of the product.

 

Because the color details of the living things cannot be observed under the electron microscope, the designer wants to invite you to participate in the project and to vote for your favorite color and style of the project product. Play Design Hotel will select 10 voters from the highest vote, and give them the most popular product for free. Rachel will also hold workshops in near future, and invite you to create design items inspired by bio-art.

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Rachel 以時裝設計中的「系列」概念,來串起三位藝術家不同的作品;即利用同樣的組裝系統、布料與手法,發展三個不同計畫的生活物件,讓使用者可由一致的系列物件去體驗藝術家不同的計畫概念。   藝術家的三個計畫都和生物相關,因此材料上選用俱有毛氈感的不織布。透過這個質感,讓房客嘗試去想像生物的觸感。不織布俱一定的挺度,能使用卡榫系統讓布料能拼接成不同形狀。以此種作法取代一般軟材質使用縫紉工法來製作產品,讓使用者親身體驗「組裝」與「⽤手縫紉」的原理,進一步瞭解物件或生物體本身的結構與產品構成方式。

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